When Cogburn’s, Norwalk’s very popular pub, lost its lease, Buckley Ryan and his old friend B.J. Lawless decided to go into business together. They took over the space formerly occupied by the seedy old Brass Rail and gutted it. In the process, they took off many layers of decayed flooring and added new hardwood floors. They took three layers of plaster board off the walls downstairs, and then, upstairs, they uncovered two windows and a fireplace. Unfortunately, the fireplace is unusable. However, the feeling is bright and inviting.
The warmth comes from the gregarious Buckley and B.J., who are hands-on, hospitable restaurateurs. They are everywhere: greeting, seating, helping with order-taking and serving.
Another very important ingredient for success was to hire an excellent chef. Steve Alward started working at Mario’s when he was 14, opened the Georgetown Saloon at 23 and went to the Culinary Institute of America at age 29. Justifiably proud of the menu, he says, “A joint effort, we wanted to serve things we like as well as things that everyone likes. We have ethnic food, good old pub food, and you can get eggs anytime you want them — and fabulous hamburgers. Desserts are seasonal. Now that summer is on the way, we are making berry crisps and will make a peach melba — old fashioned but great as soon as the peaches come in.”
No giving away secrets, but their pizza crust is absolutely the crispest you’ve ever had, and the delicious toppings are extra special. The wild mushroom, prosciutto and truffle oil pizza is a masterpiece. The French pizza features Canadian bacon, crème fraiche and Gruyère cheese.
Of course, you can get a standard, classic cheese pizza, but why when you can have a Casino Royale topped with white clams, garlic and peppers?
Of the 13 appetizers, the Bang Bang shrimp is a hit. Another treat are the fresh Prince Edward Island mussels, steamed in a red and spicy sauce with tomatoes, white wine and Thai chili paste. Outrageously good are the veal marrow bones with oxtail marmalade. Instead of standard Maryland crab cakes, they serve Maryland crab finger crepes. Among the specialties, there are pub favorites, such as fried calamari and Buffalo wings. They also serve excellent soups and sandwiches, eggs Benedict, omelets and a fried egg and ham frittata with green onions, asparagus, ham and cheese. Often, eggs are just the thing at 10:30 at night.
The partners have some special promotions that are working well. During the restaurant’s quiet time, between 2 p.m. and 4 p.m., absolutely everything on the menu and from the bar is 25 percent off.
They call this “Hooky Hour” for people who are playing hooky from work or simply enjoying having a very late lunch.
During Happy Hour, there are complimentary bar snacks and “spin the wheel” for free shots, beer or whatever.
There are also early bird specials until 6 p.m. featuring a three-course meal for $14.95. This includes soup or salad, choice of entrees, dessert and coffee. Great for pre-movie dining.
On Monday night, they fill up with “restaurant employee appreciation” whereby all of the tired chefs and wait staff from around Norwalk, mostly friends, can kick back and enjoy being fed and waited on themselves. “These are friends, people we’ve worked with and so, it’s really fun!” says Buckley Ryan.
On Saturday and Sunday, many specials for brunch are served as well as the regular menu. Again, there is something for everyone.
Open only since August 24th of last year, they are off to a flying start with many of the factors that should make this delightful restaurant a continuous success.
